Get grip cutouts or an integrated handle on any board you will carry to the table or serve on. Choose a full-surface board with no handle for pure heavy prep, where every square inch counts. On a big end-grain board, side grip cutouts are the sweet spot.
The question sounds like a style choice and it is not. It is about how you use the board. A 1.75-inch end-grain maple board can weigh 8 to 12 pounds, and lifting that wet off a counter with flat wet hands is how boards get dropped. If you carry your board to the table or use it to serve, some kind of grip earns its place. If the board never leaves the counter, a handle just steals cutting area.
Are handles on a cutting board worth it?
Yes, if you lift, carry, or serve on the board. A handle or a pair of grip cutouts turns a heavy slab into something you can move with wet hands without fumbling it. They also let you hang the board to dry and store it on edge, which is better for the wood than lying flat.
The cost is real cutting area and, on a full protruding handle, a weak point where the handle meets the board. That is why on a serious prep board I favor recessed side grip cutouts over a big carved handle. You keep almost the whole surface and still get a secure hold.
| Style | Cutting area kept | Easy to carry? | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| No handle, full surface | All of it | Harder when heavy and wet | Heavy daily prep |
| Recessed side grip cutouts | Almost all | Yes | Big boards you carry or serve on |
| Protruding carved handle | Less | Yes | Serving and paddle boards |
Do grip cutouts or a full handle work better?
Grip cutouts, for most kitchens. Recessed cutouts on the two short sides give you a secure two-handed lift while sacrificing only a sliver of surface and adding no protruding weak point. A full carved handle looks great on a serving paddle but removes more cutting area and creates a spot that can crack under a heavy board's weight.
The one place a protruding handle wins is a dedicated serving or bread board you carry one-handed to the table. For a board that does real knife work, cutouts are the smarter engineering. They are the reason our larger boards use side grips rather than a handle sticking off the end.
How much cutting area does a handle cost you?
A protruding handle can eat 2 to 4 inches off one end of the board, while recessed grip cutouts cost you almost nothing usable. On a 17x13 board, that difference decides if you can comfortably break down a whole chicken or a large squash. Every inch of clear surface matters more than people expect until they run out of room mid-prep.
This is why the handle question ties directly to size. If you want handles and a large working surface, buy a bigger board or choose cutouts. We break down real working dimensions in what size cutting board do you actually need, and the short answer is do not let a handle shrink you below the surface you need.
Do handles or cutouts trap water and cause problems?
They can, if you do not dry them. Recessed cutouts and the crook of a handle hold water longer than a flat face, and standing moisture in maple invites staining and, over years, small cracks. The fix is simple: dry the cutouts with a towel and stand the board on edge so they drain.
This is a care habit, not a reason to avoid grips. Any board needs proper drying, and a board with cutouts just needs you to wipe two extra spots. Keep up with a monthly wax and the cutouts age exactly like the rest of the board. Our cutting board thickness guide covers why thick maple tolerates this better than thin softwood.
Can you hang a cutting board by its handle?
Yes, and it is one of the better reasons to have a handle or a cutout with a hole. Hanging a board lets both faces dry fully in open air, which beats leaning it against a backsplash where one side stays damp. It also frees counter and cabinet space.
Make sure the hanging hole is drilled through solid wood, not through a glue seam, or the board's own weight will work that joint loose over years of daily hanging. On a well-built board the hole sits in the middle of a stave, and it holds up as long as the board does.
When should you skip handles entirely?
When the board lives on the counter and does nothing but heavy prep. If you are not carrying it to the table, a handle only costs you surface and gives nothing back. A full-surface board is the right call for a stationary workhorse where you want every inch for the knife.
Weight matters here too. A board heavy enough to need a handle for carrying is also heavy enough to stay put while you work, which is what you want on a prep board. If it never moves, keep it plain and give yourself the biggest cutting field the footprint allows.
Our end-grain hard maple cutting board is 17x13x1.75 inches of USA-made hard maple with food-safe PVA glue and a 5-year warranty, and it ships with Board Balm and a black gift box. Built to work on the counter and move to the table.
Are handled cutting boards weaker than solid ones?
A protruding handle adds a stress point where it meets the board, which can crack under weight or a drop; recessed grip cutouts do not meaningfully weaken a thick board. If you want handles without the weak spot, choose side cutouts on a 1.75-inch slab. The thickness carries the load and the cutouts stay solid.
Do you lose much cutting space with grip cutouts?
Almost none. Recessed cutouts sit at the very edge of the board where you rarely cut anyway, so the usable field stays nearly full. A protruding handle is the version that costs real space, up to 4 inches off one end, which is why cutouts are the better choice for a working board.
Are handles better for serving and charcuterie boards?
Yes. A serving or charcuterie board is carried to the table and set down full of food, so a comfortable handle or grip is exactly where it belongs. On a presentation board you are not doing heavy knife work, so trading a little surface for an easy one-handed carry is a fair deal. Keep the handle on serving boards and cutouts on prep boards.
How do you care for the cutouts and handle area?
Dry them by hand after every wash and stand the board on edge so water drains out rather than pooling. Work board wax into the cutouts along with the faces during your monthly oiling, since those recessed spots dry out and can crack first if neglected. Treated this way, the grips outlast most kitchens.
When was this article last reviewed?
This article was last reviewed in July 2026 by the Bevel & Bond workshop team. We update these buying guides as we design and build boards, so the recommendations reflect what we would tell a customer standing in the shop today.
Get the end-grain hard maple cutting board or browse the full Bevel & Bond collection. Keep the surface and the grips in shape with Board Balm.
